Bahamas Cruise

Day 11 – Key Biscayne

We got up earlier today so that Tommy could have a chance to reevaluate a possible alternative final approach to Key Biscayne, given that we would likely arrive in the shallower waters around the Key near low tide. We were all set to go except for pulling and stowing the power cord at 6:45a.m. but decided we’d rather not rush the tricky narrow exit from the marina in the haste to make the 7a.m. bridge opening to the inlet. So we sipped some more coffee, took some time and made the 7:30 a.m. opening. Good thing too- turns out the arrival of a large container ship and attendant police boats would have complicated a 7:00a.m. exit.

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Going out Fort Lauderdale inlet this morning.

Waves were much less on the ocean today. We mostly saw 2 feet or less, and with the winds at 10-12 kts and E or ESE, we finally had a chance to raise all 3 sails and turn off the engine. Just can’t explain how nice it is to have the boat slicing through the water, with only the sounds of wind and water, no engine noise or odor. We sailed until the wind flagged, and then resumed motor-sailing with the mainsail alone remaining up.

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Got to sail for a little while today. Here is our cutter rig in action.

Passing Miami Beach and its environs was surreal. The tall buildings sparkled in early morning sun. It was reminiscent of what one might imagine a modern day Emerald City from the Wizard of Oz might have looked like.

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Paula at the wheel!

The part of this journey that required most attention was the approach to Key Biscayne from the ocean. We had the choice of a shorter, shallower, and less-well-marked path into the anchorage, or a longer, deeper, and well-marked route. You probably can guess we chose the latter.

One reward for the longer path was getting to see “Stiltsville”. This is a group of wooden and sheet metal houses built in the shallows of Biscayne Bay. They stand about 10 feet above the 1-3 foot depths they are built in. The homes appeared abandoned to us, but apparently there is a long and at times spicy history dating from the 1930s. Social clubs and other forms of entertainment were located in theses stilt houses at various times in the past, but hurricane damage and changing laws have taken their toll. The internet tells us that some attempts at historic preservation are in the works.

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The “town” of Stiltsville.

We now found ourselves in the most beautiful blue water, through which sea turtles, fish, and dolphins were visible. All the anchorages at Biscayne Bay such as No Name Harbor, Hurricane Hole, and Key Biscayne Harbor are popular areas to wait for good weather for a Bahamas crossing. We didn’t know how crowded they might be. We tried Key Biscayne Harbor first, and found a nice spot without many other anchored boats, although the sandbar was packed with purposely-beached runabouts. The air is full of happy girlish screams, male laughter, and the sound of salsa music with the bass turned way up. Visually, this anchorage is stunning. Miami shines at our stern, the sandbars and their happy occupants are to our port and starboard, and the oceanfront homes of Key Biscayne are at our bow.

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The “million dollar” view of Miami from our boat at anchor.

Tomorrow in the early morning we are heading across to the Bahamas. The weather looks good, with a light south-southeast breeze and no rain.  Don’t know yet what kind of Internet access we will find when we arrive. You may see a blog post tomorrow or you may not. We still intend to keep writing though, and several new posts may come at once whenever we get good connectivity.

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We came into Biscayne Bay at low tide, so opted for the longer but deeper channel to get behind the island and anchor for the night.

3 Responses

  1. There is not another city like Miami! Another favorite! Many fond memories of Key Biscayne. Safe sailing to the islands.

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