Bahamas Cruise

Day 13 – Bimini

Our first full day in the Bahamas was full of happenings, some pleasant, some not so pleasant. We were up to see a great sunrise, and had coffee and breakfast. We then walked into town with a few goals: we wanted to buy Bahamian SIM cards for our phones (the folks at the marina desk advised that the Bahama Telephone Company (BTC) opened at 8:30 am on Saturdays). No detailed map of the island was available. However,  as the whole length of Alice town and neighboring Bailey Town are only a little over two miles, we decided to wander.  Alice Town’s buildings range from low and cabin-like to ornate and unfinished. The streets are narrow, and one drives on the left-hand side of the road. There were as many golf-carts as cars, and when two vehicles approached from opposite directions, one often needed to pull to the side to let the other have room to pass. A police car on patrol passed us. Many visitors and islanders chose to travel on foot as we did. The ocean was audible everywhere you went.

We found BTC but learned it was actually closed on Saturdays. We visited a neighboring grocery contained in a shop about the size of a garage that advertised SIM cards for sale. The proprietress was out of them, but kindly called around to several of her competitors, and when she found one who had cards, advised him that she was sending us around. We thanked her and bought some beautiful limes – the only form of produce for sale.

We were able to buy our SIM cards at the grocery we were sent to, and this store too was stuffed top to bottom with many kinds of items: electric razors, toasters, soap, shampoo, medicines, cold drinks, handbags, waxed paper, etc. Usually only a few of each kind of item was in stock, with one notable exception. Three large bins of lady’s frilly panties separated into M, L, and XL in assorted styles and colors were prominently displayed.

We headed to the beach, and spent some time in our little fold-out chairs with our feet in the sand and in the water. I don’t know whether I’ll ever get used to the clarity of the water.

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When we got hungry around noon, we headed to the Island House Bar and Grill. It was dark inside, and papered with Bahamian dollars decorated with written messages. The main room was a bar, which also had a few tables. The next room was full of inoperative kitchen appliances, and had a tiny opened barred window, through which you gave your order to the cooks. They were still serving breakfast only, and the choices were several kinds of souse, including sheep’s tongue, and several stews, and Johnnycake. Tommy had conch stew, and I had fish stew. It was absolutely delicious, and the Johnnycake was a thick, cakelike bread with butter that was yummy. Maybe tomorrow we will be brave enough to try souse.

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Where we ate a great lunch.

When we got back to the boat, we found that the pretty ketch sailboat that had been next to us was now anchored in the waters behind the marina, and the young Captain was standing on the dock waiting for us, looking highly uncomfortable. He explained apologetically and in a forthright way that as they were backing out of their slip to leave, he got caught in the current and the wind, and hit the arch on the stern of our boat, catching it in his mizzen mast shroud (the wires that hold up his rear mast). His boat was apparently undamaged, but our ultrasonic anemometer, our stern light, spare VFH antennae, and TV antennae (in order of importance) were either pulled off, broken off, or otherwise destroyed.

This was not good news, but we couldn’t help but be impressed that the Captain stayed to tell us instead of hightailing it out of town. He and Tommy talked, and he waited while Tommy climbed the arch and made an assessment. Paula talked with him while waiting, and learned that this was the first boat he and his wife ever owned, although they had sailed with clubs. They’d only had their ketch since November 2017. They had taken leave of absence to do a year’s sailing trip and had left from Florida not long ago.  Tommy came down from the arch with the bad news regarding the damage. The two men looked at replacement costs on the computer, and the ketch’s Captain told us he wished to compensate us directly (which he did). He, his wife and dog all came to the boat once more to express their concern.  Tommy gave him some tips on checking his shroud that got caught on our boat to make sure it was sound, and we urged them not to let this accident spoil their trip.

Tommy spent the rest of the afternoon up on the arch, removing broken equipment and trying to see if the anemometer could be salvaged temporarily. After a joint effort of cleaning, supergluing, and rewiring, we were still unable to get the anemometer to work. A temporary stern light needs to be rigged. The spare VHF antenna is also a loss, but it was a spare, so we still have functioning radio. I think we’ll miss the TV antennae the least. Even without this incident occurring, we would have stayed here a few days since the weather for the beginning of the week doesn’t look good. We will now spend some of that time seeing what we can jury rig.

We’ve now got our Bahamian phone and data plan accounts all set up so we should generally have email and Internet access wherever there is a cell signal. Paula made shrimp ceviche which is now marinating in the fridge. We will have it with a side of pineapple and warmed over Johnnycake with butter. Hopefully, this evening will be restful.

7 Responses

  1. Amazing!! That was some excitement! Sorry for the loss of electronics. If you need us to bring you over a spare let us know! We should be leaving here late next week.

    1. Thanks so much for the offer Kyle. We’re going to scavenge around here today and tomorrow for some items for a jury rig that will allow us to continue until we eventually get to Nassau where we can effect a more permanent fix. Out of all the damage, the only thing that is absolutely necessary for us to attend to now is the stern light. Even though we don’t have any night passages planned, you never know, and it is a required piece of coast guard equipment. We’ll miss the anemometer, but we still have the windex on top of the mast to see wind direction and we can pretty well guess the speed. I’ll let you know what we find in the next couple days.

  2. Tom/Paula: So sorry to hear of your misfortune with C-Ghost. However, it is good to hear that your expert boating experiences can be applied to make everything right again. Love Mom & Dad.

  3. I guess a boating fender bender can be complicated! Plenty of boating equipment places around us. Let us know if we can send you anything

    1. Thank Lis. Most places were closed today (really just one place – the only hardware store here!). We’ll be going there tomorrow to see what we can find. We will figure something out.

  4. So sorry for your little “bump in the road” … You and Tommy are such good & kind people to handle this incident so graciously!!!

  5. I am sorry to hear about this accident but these happen. It is good experience to take a bad situation and make lemonade. Each time you learn and increase your knowledge base. You have beautiful weather, a beautiful sea and great food, that’s the islands!

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