This morning we had coffee at “The Bean”, just off the property of the Oriental marina. It was apparently the early morning gathering place in Oriental, and was a friendly space where locals and boaters mingled. We met another newly retired couple, making their first ICW trip in their Endeavor sailboat. We chatted about family, weather, and boating in general. They were traveling with their two sailing cats.

After coffee, we readied C Ghost and took off across the Neuse river, then to Adams Creek and the Adams Creek Canal. We actually saw and heard an osprey-the first we’ve seen since they migrated from the Magothy in mid-September. We passed under a fixed bridge only to see a most unusual channel marker just beyond.

VHF radio chatter proved entertaining. Tom misread the transom of the beautiful sailing catboat “Katniss” and hailed her by the moniker “Catnip”. As he is not a Hunger Games fan, I have to forgive him. Plus his minor mistake was way overshadowed by another captain who hailed the sailing vessel “Shear Madness” as “Sheep Madness.” Perhaps he was thinking of mad cow disease??

There are two options for the approach to Beaufort, each rounding a different side of Radio Island. We chose the longer, more serpentine route, as Tom had concerns about the combination of shallower depths (5 feet in some places) and the current in the alternate but shorter and more direct route.

The channel coming into Beaufort was tricky, with current pushing us forward, especially underneath the fixed Morehead City Bridge and its associated bascule railroad bridge. Matters were complicated by speedy small fishing boats zipping hither and yon, and a giant cargo ship, the Aurora, being rotated 180 degrees by two tugs. Moments after we cleared the bridge, she had completely obstructed the path under the bridge.

Tying up at Beaufort Docks was made easy by detailed radio instruction and helping hands dockside. At the office, we were given a map of town, all marina info, and a dinner recommendation, for Aqua, a restaurant one street away.

We visited the North Carolina Maritime Museum and its watercraft center. Featured in the museum was Blackbeard the pirate and the wreck of his ship, the Queen Anne’s Revenge, which is being excavated at Beaufort and its artifacts displayed in the museum.

In addition to canon, small arms, and pottery, recovered items included an early medical device for treating the pirates’ sexually transmitted infections (occupational hazard).

We strolled through the rest of the dockside area and saw a pod of dolphins, including a juvenile, pass by just outside the marina. We had coffee treats and a sample of fudge and Tom picked up some additional marina guides.

Returning to our dock, we were happy to see our new sailing friends from the Oriental coffee shop tying up at the docks. They then revealed that they had taken the other route into Beaufort and their vessel had made two soft groundings, without damage, but it was a nerve-wracking experience. We commiserated and reiterated the Chesapeake Bay saying that everyone has either gone aground sometime, or is lying!

We had dinner at Aqua, which featured tapas and small plates. It was as good a meal as we have had anywhere: crab corn chowder, shrimp and grits, Caesar salad, crab and roast pineapple Napoleon (unusual combo but super good) and crab cake. Stuffed, we waddled back to C Ghost to write the blog post, check the latest wind and weather forecast, and the Camp Lejeune firing schedule, as we hope to anchor just past there tomorrow night.