Bahamas Cruise

Day 37 – Normans Cay

We were second in the parade of boats leaving Palm Cay early this morning. Once out of the channel, all peeled off on their own in keeping with their differing destinations. At first we wallowed quite a bit in four foot short period swells, but that improved markedly once the steadying mainsail went up. Happily, this morning’s wind, mostly N, and about 15-18kts, was in a direction and strength that afforded us over four hours of pleasant sailing with full mainsail and jib. No motor, no noise except wind, waves, the VHF and our own voices. The most direct (and shortest) route for todays journey would have taken us across an area strewn with coral heads called the “Yellow Bank”. We instead opted to head further south right at the outset to the southern edge of the yellow bank where it meets a deeper and clearer area called the “White Bank”. We never had any trouble with coral and had depths from 11 – 25 feet the whole way. This allowed us to sail without worry and only added 5 extra miles to the trip.

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So nice to be sailing again!

Once we approached Normans Cay we furled the sails to make certain we could navigate between coral heads near the island more accurately. Normans Cay has two main anchorages. The first has a pretty beach and is generally most popular but has little protection from a N or W wind as is predicted tonight and most of tomorrow. The second has been criticized in reviews for the noise and sight of ongoing adjacent construction on Normans Cay, but it has much better protection. So we weren’t surprised to see no one anchored at the beach anchorage, but lots of sail and powerboats in the second anchorage. We arrived pretty early and got a nice spot, near enough to the dock to see all the interesting activity there, but not too close. Now the anchorage is really filling in. There are currently sixteen boats with an hour of daylight left.

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We came in between the rocks on the right and the small island on the left.

As we entered the anchorage, some sailboat bunnies called to Tommy, “You have such a beautiful sailboat!” He gallantly replied that they that their sailboat was beautiful too. Hmmph. There is a pretty bar and micro-island here and children and adults have been romping on it all afternoon.

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Might be some good shells here.

A medium sized gray industrial-appearing boat tied to the dock disgorged and took on passengers, luggage and what appear to be boxes of provisions. Occasionally, a small plane takes off in the near distance from Normans’ small airport. People have been zipping back and forth to the dock and to explore the anchorage in their motorized dinghies.  The dinghy-piloting style here is very big on having the pilot, or a passenger, stand in the front of the dinghy. This person holds the tow rope tightly in one hand, much like the bridle of a horse, and looks straight ahead as the dinghy motors on. This can take some skill and balance, especially when going over wake and waves.

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There’s a dock here, but no obvious place belonging to it except to serve the construction site. Apparently you can get to the restaurant from this dock as well.

One couple, clearly in their 70’s, descended into their dinghy in the boating equivalent of summer business casual (island style). They headed for the dock at a brisk pace, with the woman standing regally in the bow in her summer dress with sweater ties around her neck. She appeared dignified and unfazed by small wakes and waves, like a female George Washington crossing the Delaware. Once on the dock, a golf-cart drove up and they got in. Likely they were going to dinner at McDuff’s, the only restaurant on Normans Cay per our cruising guide.

We re-inflated Poltergeist, our dinghy, for the first time this trip, and put her in the davits. Tomorrow Paula will give her a good scrub, and we will explore.

Tonight’s dinner was re-warmed pot roast (always better the second day) with root vegetables (carrots, onions, garlic, potatoes, and turnips) and gravy. And Johnnycake. The night promises to be nice and cool, without threat of rain. As there are many boats in this anchorage, the wind is forecast to shift, and the current is strong, we plant to sleep in the cockpit.

We barely have cell coverage here and our cell signal amplifier has made its money tonight allowing for this post to be published.

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