Bahamas Cruise

Day 39 – Shroud Cay

It was a windy night last night with 20kt+ gusts in the anchorage out of the NW. This anchorage on the southeast side of Normans Cay proved just the right place to be. While there was a moderate to strong current running through the anchorage, there was almost no swell, some wind protection from W up to N, and excellent holding. We both slept well. The forecast was for the wind to shift direction from NW to NE then E by mid-afternoon today, so we decided to leave after lunch and head for Shroud Cay, only a short six mile trip south.

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The sunrise at Normans Cay was beautiful today.

We spent a nice morning reading in the cockpit and evaluating weather while we waited for the wind to moderate a bit and shift direction. The anchorage at Shroud Cay has excellent protection from E wind but none at all when the wind is NW. The anchor came up  caked with a combination of seagrass and lots of sand (we didn’t move an inch during the night). It was an easy exit back out to the bank and a relatively deep water and coral-free trip. Shroud Cay marks the beginning of the Exuma Land and Sea Park which extends 22 miles south and has strict rules against fishing and other activities. We knew the park maintains mooring buoys in several of the anchorages within (1st come 1st served on Shroud Cay) and decided to try and get one if any were free. Sure enough there were, but we ended up having a hard time getting it. The moorings looked fairly new and well maintained but had very short scope. Whenever we pick up a mooring, Paula is always the designated “grabber” and Tom is at the wheel. After three tries this time, Paula couldn’t pull the mooring line high enough out of the water to get our attachment line through the “eye”. We switched positions and Tom also failed on the first try but finally got it on the 2nd attempt. There was still a stiff wind during all this making it that much harder.

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The view from our cockpit on the mooring.

The wind finally calmed (as forecast) and we put Poltergeist in the water and decided to go for a swim. The water here is crystal clear, giving us a chance to visually inspect a few things on the bottom of the boat fairly easily. After swimming, we got in Poltergeist and went to the nearby beach. When we landed there we encountered a family of five who we recognized because they were in Palm Cay when we were and also happened to anchor in Normans Cay last night as well. There was a trail to follow off the beach that led to a couple fresh water wells in the middle of the island that apparently were constructed by pirates a long time ago. While walking around the main well, Tommy almost stepped on a snake. Paula was following behind. Displaying total disregard for Tom’s peril in his close encounter with the serpent, she quickly deployed the camera for a good shot.

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Standing next to the sign for the Exuma Land and Sea Park.
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One of two fresh water wells just off the beach.
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Tom nearly stepped on this guy without ever seeing him.

We returned to the beach and swam a little and talked with the other cruising family (Mom, Dad, and three daughters) before returning to C Ghost. In the featured picture for this post you can see Poltergeist on the beach in the bottom left and C Ghost on its’ mooring in the center pointing at the beach.

Back at the boat, Paula prepared dinner (a strange leftover combo of pasta with sausage and the ham and rice) and Tom stowed Poltergeist and evaluated our travel options for the next several days given the longer-range forecast. The wind has calmed a lot now, but there is still some swell in this anchorage. We will probably head for Warderick Wells tomorrow (the main headquarters of the Exuma Land and Sea Park), about a 25 mile trip south. We may stay there a few nights.

One thing we’ve thoroughly enjoyed the last two nights (and tonight appears even better) is the view of the night sky. This is one of the best parts of sleeping in the cockpit while at anchor. The sky is full of stars from horizon to horizon.

3 Responses

  1. You will love Wardrick Wells. We were there and gave away 2500 gallons of water to sailboaters who hadn’t had a shampoo for weeks. (As there was no rain). Needless to say after that they didn’t mind having a power boat among the sailboats. In those days there were no mooring bouys. There was a wardens house and we had a pot luck dinner there. I can’t remember the warden’s name but her dog’s name was Trouble. For years after boats passing us in Marathon would holler you gave us water.

    1. After some internet research, I believe this guy was a Brown Racer. There are 5 types of snakes native to the Bahamas, none of them poisonous to humans. Bahamian Boas, Brown Racers, Pygmy Boas, Blind Snakes, and Thread snakes. Each has subtypes. The Corn snake was brought to the Bahamas and can be seen here, but it is not native.

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