After coffee, we decided to see if Poltergeist could make it to Staniel Cay. Conditions were calm, and the current was behind us so we were able to go slowly to preserve the engine battery. There was some uncertainty as to exactly where we could land the dinghy, but we were able to follow a few faster dinghies into a narrow stone gap behind the sea wall where there was a dedicated dinghy landing beach.

We beached Poltergeist and set her anchor in the sand for good measure as it was low tide, and we didn’t know how fast the water would rise. More good luck, the supply boat had just come in an hour or so earlier. We took our one leaf bag of trash to the bins. We walked to Burke’s, the main grocery, to find that they had opened, but were now closed, so that the grocer could go to the boat dock and get her stock. Then they planned to re-open but expected that would take about an hour and a half.

We decided to spend the time exploring. We passed the Pink Pearl, the secondary grocery store, and they were open, and carrying items from the supply boat into the front door. Given that the stores took only cash, combined with our limited carrying power (we had the back pack and our two sets of arms), and lack of a way to keep perishables cold, we prioritized the buying list: Flour, sugar, cream of coconut, bananas, plantains, zucchini, carrots. We asked about frozen chicken, but that wouldn’t be unloaded for a few hours. There were no fresh meats-and no fish, the latter due to the blustery conditions that kept the fishing boats at harbor.

Just outside the store, we fell into conversation with a couple who also live aboard their Island Packet and hail from Oriental, NC. We have seen their boat in several of the anchorages we’ve stayed in. It was fun to meet folks doing almost the exact same thing we are. We exchanged boat cards, and we are sure to run into them again.

We then set out on a sight-seeing walk, groceries in hand. The island is much smaller than New Providence, or even Bimini, but the local neighborhoods appeared prosperous, many with well-tended gardens, and brightly painted homes. There is a clinic, staffed by a nurse, with a doctor who visits once/month.

We viewed a large concrete edifice under construction, which is to house the high school, “restrooms for students”, and serve as a hurricane shelter for the island. We visited the airport and followed ornate signs to “Embrace Resorts” to find the project in what appeared to be the early stages of ground clearing.

We decided to walk back to the Staniel Cay Yacht Club, near where Poltergeist was beached, as there was a restaurant on premises. We hoped to treat ourselves to a lunch out. As we passed Burke’s we saw that they had reopened. Paula dashed in to buy limes, which weren’t available at the Pink Pearl, and an extra 46 oz. can of pineapple juice, as Tommy really likes those virgin Pina Coladas. She found herself waiting in line just behind a mother with a babe-in-arms, a toddler in tow, and a bag of produce to ring up. The cashier was very kind to the mom and we all tried to keep the toddler occupied while the groceries were purchased. While Paula’s groceries were rung up, she and the cashier talked about the demands of early motherhood. A nice chat.

We were fortunate enough to get a table at “The Sunset Deck”, a tiny elevated dining area with a view of the marina docks just as they opened at noon. Tom had a conch Po’Boy on Bahama bread and Paula had spiny lobster salad. It was great.

Just after we sat down, three huge speed boats bearing tourists from Nassau pulled up and disgorged their passengers, nearly all of whom made a beeline for the bar adjacent to the Sunset Deck. The bar rapidly became a very happening place abounding with the sounds and sights of celebration. Nurse sharks circled the shallow water near the piers, made accustomed by fish-cleaning scraps from the docks. Kayakers paddled into the middle of the circling sharks, and one little boy patted their fins. We saw some of our new friends from the trio of travelers we joined for snacks yesterday, which was a nice surprise. It was great to see familiar faces.

The ride back in Poltergeist went well. We were able to maintain a slow speed and arrived back at C Ghost with 60% of our battery power still remaining. This afternoon, while we read in the cockpit, two of our new friends came by in their dinghy to return the brownie and nut containers, which we’d left aboard their sailboat, and a wonderful gift! One of the topics of discussion yesterday had been ways of disembarking a larger sailboat to a smaller dinghy from the side. One of the Captain’s sons was a woodworker, who made boarding steps. The Captain had an extra on board, and insisted we take it. This was extremely generous, and we will use it with pleasure. Hopefully we will have a chance to do them a good turn someday.

The day already seemed very full by this point. Tommy got a short nap in the cockpit while Paula read and watched the dinghies zipping across the anchorage. There was lots of socializing happening, with boaters visiting their friends and neighbors. People were returning from Staniel Cay with supplies and water. The tour boats rocketed across the water, making their stops. Sea birds called plaintively and wheeled in groups across the sky. A distant thready scream was heard from shore, and Paula could see a spotted pig chasing a woman in a bathing suit.

While Tommy dozed, Paula put dinner together. Another thaw and reheat meal: Boneless chicken thighs with mushroom gravy, mac and cheese, and canned peaches. It’s hard to believe we enjoyed a meal in March, that was cooked in December, and peaches that we bought for our ICW cruise! As we finished out meal, the sun set, and the chorus of crazy conch calls began, punctuated by one different drummer who blew an air-horn.